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Evolv Addict Review

The shoes were smaller than I would have purchased, especially for a flat shoe.  The fit of the shoe favors a narrower foot and caused some pain in the small toes, which I suspect would happen for my foot even in a larger size.  If the user had a foot shape that fit the shoe better I believe they could be a comfortable all day shoe.  Another concern for me would e the stretch in the shoe.  Despite the painfully tight fit for the first several months; they stretched to a comfortable fit.  If the user is not willing to tolerate the break in period then the shoe would likely become loose and baggy.

The rubber was very stiff and not as sticky as some shoes.  I found it difficult to trust the rubber on routes with smooth limestone.  The stiffness allowed for decent edging, but the flat slipper design made small edges feel insecure as the shoe began to roll.  The stiff rubber also drastically reduced the sensitivity for the shoe.  The smearing was not hampered by the stiffness, but was limited by the friction of the rubber.  The one significant benefit of the stiff rubber, was that I have used them for over 100 days of climbing and they are just finally needing a resole.

The slipper model is never very good for heel-hooking and the Addict’s are no exception.  Slip on means slip off and it’s usually easier off.  The stiff sole helped protect the foot for jamming, but with the slipper I found the shoe getting stuck in cracks and nearly losing it off my foot.  While it’s probably fine most of the time, it’s an issue to keep in mind so you don’t end up half way up a wall with one shoe.

Overall, I’m not a fan of these shoes.  I don’t to lots of crack climbing and I’m not a big fan of slippers.  Beyond that, these shoes don’t fit my foot well.  If you’re a fan of the Moccasym and want to try a new shoe, this might be just what you’re looking for.  If you want a performance shoe, keep looking.


Testing Notes:

I received these shoes for free, although not from the manufacturer, to test.  I climbed many pitches in them over the course of many months.  I used them for sport climbing, mostly on limestone, and a little bit of bouldering and trad climbing.  This pair of Addicts was size 9.  I usually wear size EU 40.5 and street shoe 10.5.

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