"Not all those who wander are lost"

Five Ten Hiangle

The Hiangles are clearly aimed to be a lower cost competitor to high end aggressive the Solutions, but they have a few major downsides for me.  First, the opening for the shoe isn’t big enough.  I could barely get my foot into the shoes I tested, yet the size was still larger than I would want to wear.  The second problem I had was the heel size and shape.  As with many Five Ten shoes, the heel has leather on the sides which makes the heel have voids and feel like the shoe is baggy.  The general use of the shoe was very good and was the best experience I’ve had from a pair of Five Tens.  The toe rubber was good and thick enough that I wouldn’t expect it to wear as quickly as solutions.  One final downside, unrelated to shoe performance, was that the shoes turned my feet blue from the dye in the leather.  This didn’t just happen when my feet were hot or when I wore them many times in a day.  One short pitch and my feet would be so blue that I couldn’t even get it to scrub off in the shower.

Over the few months I have had the shoes; they already have significantly worn edges although the rest of the shoe shows no sign of wear.  As I mentioned, the shoes are difficult to get on for the size, but they are fairly comfortable.  If they were sized down more for a better fit I don’t know if they would be as comfortable.  It’s a relatively stiff shoe and can edge, but does not have very good sensitivity so I found it hard to tell when I was standing exactly where I wanted.  The Five Ten rubber performed well smearing even though the shoe is more downturned and not designed for it.  The added toe rubber which seems to be industry standard for aggressive shoes was good, although it was a bit thicker than it needed to be.

Five Tens usually don’t fit my foot well once I size down enough.  This pair wasn’t sized down quite enough, but for the first time it didn’t feel like my foot was falling out over the side of the shoe.  I like the closure system (single Velcro strap on a slipper style shoe, similar to the Solution), but I think this pair doesn’t execute it quite right.  As I mentioned earlier, the opening is so small I could barely get my foot in even though the shoe isn’t quite downsized enough.  If it was slightly larger it would be much better.  They were nice, easy to get on and off and quick to fasten the single Velcro strap.  I would make the strap shorter though.  Currently when the shoes are on, the strap goes past the end of the Velcro leaving the end dangling.

Overall I am quite torn by this shoe because it’s decent, but with some easy fixes of the issues I mentioned I think it could be a very good shoe.  It’s also nice for a first aggressive shoe since it’s going to be sold at ~$120.


Testing Notes:

I received these shoes for free, although not from the manufacturer, to test.  I climbed many pitches in them over the course of several months.  I used them for sport climbing, mostly on limestone, and a little bit of bouldering.  This pair of Hiangles was size 10.  I usually wear size EU 40.5, Five Ten 9-9.5, and street shoe 10.5.

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